On a recent ferry trip across the Gulf of Finland I was less preoccupied with loading up my trolley with half-price salmiakki and liquor than with trying to catch up with the local Tallinn art scene, about which I realised I know embarrassingly next to nothing. But I forgot any sense of shame as soon as the boat reached dock. Arriving into the Estonian capital is breathtaking - even for those of us not under the influence - its citadel's fairytale skyline and dramatic medieval white-washed walls (and endless stories of headless maidens and unreservedly bleeding criminal ghosts) hiding the cushy luxury lounges, members' only cultural clubs and nothing but contemporary local spirit, hidden in pockets throughout the postcard pretty old town quarter. In a few hours of wandering I managed to get a good look at a couple of world politics-inclined art shows and hear about a few more for the next trip.
Now my new research project into Estonian artists begins: a photo show by Denes Farkas at the Hobusepea Galerii from 20 Dec to 8 Jan 2007, graphic work by Sirje Eelma at the SEB Eesti Uhispanga Galerii, to 19 Jan 2007, and a show of Juri Arraku's paintings from the 1960s to today at the Kumu Kunstimuuseum, to 29 Jan 2007, for starters, and plenty more at kunstikeskus.ee. A word of warning - some of the info is still offered only in Estonian, though everyone I met was perfectly fluent in English and kindly more than happy to assist those of us ignorant of one of the most difficult languages I've ever encountered - likened to a lawyer's life by a friend: '14 cases, no sex (ie, gender), and no future (tense)'. Embarrassment hits again. I'll try Rosetta Stone before the next trip.

Image from 'Crime and Punishment'
Tallinna Kunstihoone / Tallinn Art Hall Gallery
Vabaduse väljak 6, 10146 Tallinn
T: +372 66442 2818
Contrary to Deleuze, who believed that with the transition from a disciplinary society to a society of control, prison systems would disappear in the long term, they are currently actually expanding and growing. Only the production method for criminalization has changed. 'Crime and Punishment' (to 10 Dec 2006), a group exhibit featuring Bigert & Bergström (SWE), Ashley Hunt (USA), Mark Raidpere (EST), Oliver Ressler & Martin Krenn (AUT), Alejandro Vidal (ESP), Danh Vo (DEN / VIE), Laura Waddington (GBR/ BEL), curated by Anders Harm, presented work inspired by this premiss.

From Tal Adler's 'Unrecognised' series.
Tal Adler's 'Unrecognised' is a eye-opening group of photographs documenting the personal lives of Bedouins affected by Israeli changing laws and second-rate treatment, calling for change. At the gallery's project space (to 10 Dec 2006).
Opening this Thursday 16 Dec, 'City Expressions' will bring a selection of contemporary Chinese art to the gallery (to 21 Jan 2007).
Lupe Nunez-Fernandez is a writer/editor based in London and Madrid. She also makes art and is one half of Pipas, a pop duo.




