ROD MENGHAM VISITS ANSELM KIEFER'S STUDIO COMPLEX IN BARJAC, FRANCE
The road to Barjac, the hilltop citadel where Kiefer has his living and working space, is long and serpentine if you approach it from Nimes. Nimes is the ideal starting-point for this journey, its antiquity making it an iconographical primer for many of Kiefer's preoccupations. Among its Roman remains, the amphitheatre in particular pays homage to a painter whose architectural spaces often remind us of the fatal legacy of the imperial idea, with its double dream of order and barbarism. But it is not this that makes me queasy so much as the lurching drive through the vineyards, in a business-class Mercedes piloted by an air-brushed lady chauffeur. I want to throw up, but am conscious that in this milieu, using a Mercedes as a vomitorium would brand me as distinctly vulgar, if not an absolute barbarian. 
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